i received azalea flowers for easter. I keep them in the house and they look like they died. I had also received tulips and they died inside. I replanted the tulips outside even though they will not grow back until next year. I really dont know anything about azalea%26#039;s and i was wondering if they can be replanted or if there is anything that will bring them back to life.
There are green leaves on them still and the stems look good there are just no pink flowers on them. Is it dead or they bloomed and will come back next year? Do i need to keep watering them even though there are no flowers?
I also live in Long Island....Here we have all four seasons will they survive outside where i live?
Azalea flowers?
The Long Island climate is very favorable to azaleas. They bloom for a few weeks each spring and make a spectacular display then the flowers die and they grow leaves for the rest of the summer. Get those plants dug in outside as soon as possible, and keep them well watered. They need a semi-sunny spot. You can also fertilize them with MirAcid (MiracleGro for acid-loving plants).
Reply:I had a similar situation this year. Mine are in the ground and this is their first year. The flowers turned brown after a decent frost but the leaves are still green and healthy. I talked to my grandparents who have been farmers for over 60 years. They said to make sure to water them twice a week and they still would not bloom again until next spring. They also said that they are hearty plants and will probable survive most weather conditions (but we live in Alabama).
Reply:The azaleas will flower once a year in the spring and give you a nice bush during the growing season. I%26#039;m not sure if you received the azalea bush from a florist or greenhouse, but sometimes the ones from the florist are just ornamental and will not thrive outdoors.
Reply:azalea flowers or bush? The bush should have planted outside..they are not houseplants. Plant it and water it well. Azaleas only flower in the spring for a short time.
Reply:Yes plant them outside.......It should survive.....
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Sunday, April 12, 2009
Azalea Question?
We are new to gardening and planted three Encore Azaleas in October and now the plants look sparse and brown (there are some green leaves left but not many) is this a normal look for the azalea in the winter? Will they fill back out and green up in the spring or could they be dead? They are in partial shade and it hasn%26#039;t been too wet or too dry this winter. We live in southeastern VA. Any insight is appreciated.
Azalea Question?
I%26#039;d suspct winter damage. I don%26#039;t live too far from you (eastern North Carolina) and we have had our share of cold winter weather. What you describe sounds typical for Encore Azaleas. These azaleas have been heavily marketed by Lowe%26#039;s and some varieties are sold in areas where they don%26#039;t really grow that well. As with all azaleas, make sure they are not planted too deep. Azaleas love water, but not wet feet. I%26#039;d wait and see how they come out in the Spring before I did too much. After they bloom, cut them back and fertilize them with an Azalea fertilizer. Hollytone makes a good one as does Vigoro. I really am afraid you have an azalea that is not cold hardy. As for %26quot;regular%26quot; azaleas, I suggest Hersey or Hino Crimson for your area. Good luck.
Reply:They will look like that in the winter like a lot of perenials. Especially if you live in the East.
Reply:Link for azalea care
http://www.greengold.com.au/greengold/CA...
**********************************
Miracle Grow makes a fertilizer especially for acid loving plants.
http://www.miraclegro.com/index.cfm/even...
**************************************...
I live just 18 miles from the biggest Azalea Festival in Missouri.
I don%26#039;t even have a Azalea plant
*************************************
You might need to check with a local nursery or garden center.
Reply:Sometimes my Azaleas looks like that but they come back out during spring. Also later this spring try giving them some Miracle Grow and see if that helps. Also depening on your location Azaleas are evergreen and evergreen pplants do drop their leaves ands grows new ones.
Reply:Don%26#039;t worry! That%26#039;s what they%26#039;re supposed to look like in the winter. Fertilize them now, prune off the dead stuff. In a few weeks they%26#039;ll be doing great! Pouring a little vinegar around the base of each one will go far to jump starting them!
Reply:Could be shock, could be dead. You can gently scratch a limb or branch with your fingernail. If it%26#039;s fleshy and green underneath then it%26#039;s still good to go. Best bet is to just wait and see what happens in the spring. If it starts to show life apply some Hollytone and some superphosphorous ( 0-45-0 ) to the soil around each plant and water generously. Be sure it%26#039;s well mulched. If dead then just replant. GOOD LUCK!
super nanny
Azalea Question?
I%26#039;d suspct winter damage. I don%26#039;t live too far from you (eastern North Carolina) and we have had our share of cold winter weather. What you describe sounds typical for Encore Azaleas. These azaleas have been heavily marketed by Lowe%26#039;s and some varieties are sold in areas where they don%26#039;t really grow that well. As with all azaleas, make sure they are not planted too deep. Azaleas love water, but not wet feet. I%26#039;d wait and see how they come out in the Spring before I did too much. After they bloom, cut them back and fertilize them with an Azalea fertilizer. Hollytone makes a good one as does Vigoro. I really am afraid you have an azalea that is not cold hardy. As for %26quot;regular%26quot; azaleas, I suggest Hersey or Hino Crimson for your area. Good luck.
Reply:They will look like that in the winter like a lot of perenials. Especially if you live in the East.
Reply:Link for azalea care
http://www.greengold.com.au/greengold/CA...
**********************************
Miracle Grow makes a fertilizer especially for acid loving plants.
http://www.miraclegro.com/index.cfm/even...
**************************************...
I live just 18 miles from the biggest Azalea Festival in Missouri.
I don%26#039;t even have a Azalea plant
*************************************
You might need to check with a local nursery or garden center.
Reply:Sometimes my Azaleas looks like that but they come back out during spring. Also later this spring try giving them some Miracle Grow and see if that helps. Also depening on your location Azaleas are evergreen and evergreen pplants do drop their leaves ands grows new ones.
Reply:Don%26#039;t worry! That%26#039;s what they%26#039;re supposed to look like in the winter. Fertilize them now, prune off the dead stuff. In a few weeks they%26#039;ll be doing great! Pouring a little vinegar around the base of each one will go far to jump starting them!
Reply:Could be shock, could be dead. You can gently scratch a limb or branch with your fingernail. If it%26#039;s fleshy and green underneath then it%26#039;s still good to go. Best bet is to just wait and see what happens in the spring. If it starts to show life apply some Hollytone and some superphosphorous ( 0-45-0 ) to the soil around each plant and water generously. Be sure it%26#039;s well mulched. If dead then just replant. GOOD LUCK!
super nanny
Question concerning Azalea shrubs.?
I have some old Azalea in my yard that were beautiful when we moved in 6 years ago. Then last summer one by one they started to die off. Usually a branch will die here and there on the shrub. The branch will have very small leaves on it and then it will just die out. I sprinkle Siven (sp) Dust on them once a month for the past 2 years after I had an attack of lacebugs.
I don%26#039;t have moles or volves in my yard so I am not for sure what is going on. One very large Azalea that I pulled out and threw back in the woods actually had flowers on it after it sat in the woods on top of the soil. So there is still life in them. I scatch the branches with my nail and it%26#039;s green under the bark just no leaves. Can anyone help me out on this. I have over 75 Azaleas in my gardens and I don%26#039;t want to loose them. Thank you for any help you all can provide to me on this issue.
Question concerning Azalea shrubs.?
I can only dream about growing these plants outside, so I went to the Clemson Univ site for this info:
http://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheets/HGIC1...
If you still have questions, contact your Cooperative Extension Service for your state and county and talk either with the horticulture agent or the Master Gardeners. They live near you and will know more about azalea culture.
Reply:They like acidic soil.
dry skin care
I don%26#039;t have moles or volves in my yard so I am not for sure what is going on. One very large Azalea that I pulled out and threw back in the woods actually had flowers on it after it sat in the woods on top of the soil. So there is still life in them. I scatch the branches with my nail and it%26#039;s green under the bark just no leaves. Can anyone help me out on this. I have over 75 Azaleas in my gardens and I don%26#039;t want to loose them. Thank you for any help you all can provide to me on this issue.
Question concerning Azalea shrubs.?
I can only dream about growing these plants outside, so I went to the Clemson Univ site for this info:
http://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheets/HGIC1...
If you still have questions, contact your Cooperative Extension Service for your state and county and talk either with the horticulture agent or the Master Gardeners. They live near you and will know more about azalea culture.
Reply:They like acidic soil.
dry skin care
Azalea flowers?
i received azalea flowers for easter. I keep them in the house and they look like they died. I had also received tulips and they died inside. I replanted the tulips outside even though they will not grow until next year. I really dont know anything about azalea%26#039;s and i was wondering if they can be re planted or if there is anything that will bring them back to life
Azalea flowers?
I live in Zone 6 and azaleas are pretty common here. They%26#039;re bushes, and the varietyI have can easily reach 8 feet high if they%26#039;re not trimmed.
I%26#039;ve only seen them outside - I%26#039;ve never known anyone to grow one in a pot. You can try planting it outside and seeing if it comes back to life.
Reply:Is that first answer from an alien or what?
They are outdoor plants that bloom in the Spring. Plant outside and they should bloom again next Spring.
Reply:Azaleas are Southern signature plants in South Carolina landscapes. Numerous azalea species, hybrids and cultivars, either native to this area or hailing from the Orient, can be grown here, with bloom times ranging from early spring to midsummer. The newly released Encore™ series of azaleas offer blooms twice a year, in the spring and again in the fall. Azaleas are classified in the genus Rhododendron.
In order for azaleas to have healthy, vigorous growth, it is important to understand the impact of cultural and environmental factors on this plant. Choosing the proper planting location and using good planting methods and cultural practices are critical in providing the best conditions for optimum plant growth. For more information on the beginning steps to a healthy azalea, refer to Azalea Planting, HGIC 1058.
EXPOSURE
Azaleas prefer cool, partially shaded sites, such as the filtered shade of pine trees. Azaleas planted beneath hardwoods with shallower roots must compete with these trees for nutrients and water. If placed in the right location, however, they can do well on these sites. Although some varieties tolerate sun better than others, they all prefer an area that is not exposed to long periods of hot full sun and drying winds. Flowers last longer when plants are partially shaded. Azaleas exposed to full sun are more susceptible to lace bugs. Early morning sun exposure after a hard freeze may cause cold injury. Do not plant azaleas in heavy shade as poor flowering and weak growth result.
SOIL
Azaleas are shallow-rooted plants that are easily damaged by excessive soil moisture. They grow best in acid (4.5 to 6.0 pH), well-drained, organic soils. Before planting, have the soil tested and adjust the pH according to soil test results.
Azaleas located in poorly drained sites do not receive the oxygen required for healthy growth and often develop root rot diseases. When planting in poorly drained areas, add composted pine bark to as large an area as possible, and plant the root ball higher than ground level.
MULCHING
A 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch is very important. It conserves soil moisture, maintains soil temperature and helps discourage weeds. There are many materials available suitable for mulching. Pine straw, composted pine bark and leaves work very well, enriching the soil with organic matter as they decompose. Keep the mulch a couple of inches away from the main stem to keep the bark dry and extend it beyond the outermost branches.
WATERING
Azaleas are shallow-rooted plants and require irrigation during dry periods. This is especially true of those planted in the spring. Azaleas planted in warm weather in sandy soils may require watering of the root mass twice a week during the first year.
To determine when to water, pull back a small area of mulch near the base of the plant and check the moisture level of the root ball and surrounding soil. If the top few inches of soil feels dry, wet the soil deeply, to at least a depth of 6 to 8 inches.
Use soaker hoses or drip irrigation to slowly water the base of the plants. Overhead irrigation may promote disease.
Azaleas in waterlogged soils will decline and are susceptible to root rot diseases. It is important to reach a balance of regular, deep watering and good drainage to promote a healthy plant.
FERTILIZING
Azaleas have low nutritional requirements compared to other shrubs. A soil amended with organic matter prior to planting followed by a mulch of compost, shredded leaves, pine straw or other organic material will usually provide sufficient nutrients for adequate growth.
Before fertilizing, have a specific reason for doing so, such as increasing growth rate or correcting a nutrient deficiency. A nutrient deficiency can be exhibited by a number of symptoms including stunted growth, smaller than normal leaves, light green to yellowish leaf color and early leaf drop. Be aware that these same symptoms can be caused by other problems such as heavily compacted soil; stresses from insects, disease organisms and weeds; and excessively wet or dry soil. Fertilization will not correct those problems, so be certain that you know the cause of the symptoms and treat them appropriately.
Having your soil tested is one way to determine if applying fertilizer will benefit your azaleas. Information on soil testing is available in HGIC 1652, Soil Testing.
Most fertilizer recommendations are based on nitrogen, which is an important element in plant growth and often the one that is most likely deficient in the soil. Apply 1 pound of actual nitrogen per thousand square feet of root spread area. Up to 2 pounds can be applied with a slow-release fertilizer. In the absence of a soil test use a complete fertilizer with a ratio of 3:1:2 or 3:1:3, such as 12-4-8 or 15-5-15.
Apply fertilizer to the azalea’s root zone area (area occupied by nutrient and water-absorbing roots) which can extend beyond the drip line or outer-most branches. According to research findings, a shrub’s roots can extend three times the distance from its center to the outermost branches. So, if the distance from the center of the azalea to the outer-most branches is 2 feet, the feeder roots can extend an additional 4 feet beyond the drip line. To visualize the area to be fertilized, imagine the azalea as the center point of a circle with a 6-foot radius (the %26quot;root radius%26quot;). Trace the outer edge of the root zone area.
Since most azalea roots are located in the top foot of soil, surface application of the fertilizer is adequate. Evenly broadcast the fertilizer with a handheld spreader or a rotary or cyclone spreader over the root zone area. Sweep any fertilizer off the branches and water afterwards to make the nutrients available to the roots.
For azaleas growing in a bed, follow the steps below to determine how much fertilizer to apply over the bed to supply 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. If the shrub’s root zone area is confined by a sidewalk or driveway, reduce the area to be fertilized accordingly.
1. Measure the area of the bed, making an allowance for the roots that extend beyond the outermost branches. Let’s assume the bed is 30 feet long and 10 feet wide. The bed area (length x width) is 300 square feet.
2. Determine how much fertilizer to apply over the bed to deliver 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet using this equation:
100
%N in bag
= Number of pounds of fertilizer required per 1000 square feet in order to apply 1 pound of nitrogen
Assuming you have a 12-4-8 fertilizer, the equation for this example would look like this:
100
12
= 8.33 pounds of fertilizer required per 1000 square feet
Since the root zone is 300 square feet, the actual amount of fertilizer to apply is calculated as follows:
Root area ft²
1000 ft²
x pounds fertilizer per 1000 ft² = fertilizer to apply over root area
So,
300 ft²
1000 ft²
x 8.33 pounds fertilizer per 1000 ft² = 2.5 pounds fertilizer to apply over root area
Apply 2½ pounds or 5 cups of 12-4-8 evenly over the mulched bed.
Azaleas do not have to be routinely fertilized during the growing season. Any fertilizer application should be based on their appearance, such as leaf color, growth rate, soil test results and your objectives, such as encouraging growth or correcting a mineral deficiency.
The best time to apply fertilizer is when it will be readily absorbed by the roots of the plant and when the soil is moist, which can be any time from late spring (after new growth emerges) up to early fall. Avoid fertilizing plants stressed by drought during the summer months. Without water, plants are unable to absorb nutrients, so it is best not to fertilize if water is unavailable.
PRUNING
There are two pruning techniques used for azaleas: thinning and heading. Thinning refers to the removal of branches back to the main trunk or another branch. This method is used to remove leggy branches that extend beyond the canopy of the plant, remove damaged or diseased wood, or reduce the size of the plant. Thinning allows light to penetrate the shrub, encouraging growth on interior branches. You can thin at any time of the year without causing significant impact on flowering, growth or cold hardiness of the plant. How-ever, to reduce the impact on flowers the following year, prune just after flowering in the spring.
Heading refers to the cutting back of a branch, not necessarily to a side branch. This method is used to reduce the size of a plant, create a hedge or to renew old overgrown plants. Renew overgrown plants by cutting them back to within 6 to 12 inches of ground level. This practice results in abundant new growth by midsummer.
The best time to renew azaleas is before spring growth begins. This allows sufficient time for next year’s flower buds to form in midsummer, and for new growth to mature and harden off for winter. Renewal pruning before spring growth, of course, means that flowers are sacrificed for that year.
After renewal pruning, prune the tips of new shoots when they are 6 to 12 inches long, to encourage branching and a full canopy. Thin out new shoots emerging from the old stem. Keep the soil moist during the period after severe pruning.
PROBLEMS
The most common diseases on azaleas in South Carolina include petal blight, leaf gall, leaf spots, dieback, and root and crown rot. The most common insects are lacebug and spider mites. Good cultural practices such as careful plant location, provision of good aeration and drainage, mulching and good watering habits will reduce the incidence of disease and insect damage. For more information on disease and insect problems on azaleas, refer to Azalea and Rhododendron Diseases, HGIC 2050, and Azalea and Rhododendron Insects, HGIC 2051.
Iron is essential for healthy azaleas. Iron is available for uptake by azaleas w
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Azalea flowers?
I live in Zone 6 and azaleas are pretty common here. They%26#039;re bushes, and the varietyI have can easily reach 8 feet high if they%26#039;re not trimmed.
I%26#039;ve only seen them outside - I%26#039;ve never known anyone to grow one in a pot. You can try planting it outside and seeing if it comes back to life.
Reply:Is that first answer from an alien or what?
They are outdoor plants that bloom in the Spring. Plant outside and they should bloom again next Spring.
Reply:Azaleas are Southern signature plants in South Carolina landscapes. Numerous azalea species, hybrids and cultivars, either native to this area or hailing from the Orient, can be grown here, with bloom times ranging from early spring to midsummer. The newly released Encore™ series of azaleas offer blooms twice a year, in the spring and again in the fall. Azaleas are classified in the genus Rhododendron.
In order for azaleas to have healthy, vigorous growth, it is important to understand the impact of cultural and environmental factors on this plant. Choosing the proper planting location and using good planting methods and cultural practices are critical in providing the best conditions for optimum plant growth. For more information on the beginning steps to a healthy azalea, refer to Azalea Planting, HGIC 1058.
EXPOSURE
Azaleas prefer cool, partially shaded sites, such as the filtered shade of pine trees. Azaleas planted beneath hardwoods with shallower roots must compete with these trees for nutrients and water. If placed in the right location, however, they can do well on these sites. Although some varieties tolerate sun better than others, they all prefer an area that is not exposed to long periods of hot full sun and drying winds. Flowers last longer when plants are partially shaded. Azaleas exposed to full sun are more susceptible to lace bugs. Early morning sun exposure after a hard freeze may cause cold injury. Do not plant azaleas in heavy shade as poor flowering and weak growth result.
SOIL
Azaleas are shallow-rooted plants that are easily damaged by excessive soil moisture. They grow best in acid (4.5 to 6.0 pH), well-drained, organic soils. Before planting, have the soil tested and adjust the pH according to soil test results.
Azaleas located in poorly drained sites do not receive the oxygen required for healthy growth and often develop root rot diseases. When planting in poorly drained areas, add composted pine bark to as large an area as possible, and plant the root ball higher than ground level.
MULCHING
A 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch is very important. It conserves soil moisture, maintains soil temperature and helps discourage weeds. There are many materials available suitable for mulching. Pine straw, composted pine bark and leaves work very well, enriching the soil with organic matter as they decompose. Keep the mulch a couple of inches away from the main stem to keep the bark dry and extend it beyond the outermost branches.
WATERING
Azaleas are shallow-rooted plants and require irrigation during dry periods. This is especially true of those planted in the spring. Azaleas planted in warm weather in sandy soils may require watering of the root mass twice a week during the first year.
To determine when to water, pull back a small area of mulch near the base of the plant and check the moisture level of the root ball and surrounding soil. If the top few inches of soil feels dry, wet the soil deeply, to at least a depth of 6 to 8 inches.
Use soaker hoses or drip irrigation to slowly water the base of the plants. Overhead irrigation may promote disease.
Azaleas in waterlogged soils will decline and are susceptible to root rot diseases. It is important to reach a balance of regular, deep watering and good drainage to promote a healthy plant.
FERTILIZING
Azaleas have low nutritional requirements compared to other shrubs. A soil amended with organic matter prior to planting followed by a mulch of compost, shredded leaves, pine straw or other organic material will usually provide sufficient nutrients for adequate growth.
Before fertilizing, have a specific reason for doing so, such as increasing growth rate or correcting a nutrient deficiency. A nutrient deficiency can be exhibited by a number of symptoms including stunted growth, smaller than normal leaves, light green to yellowish leaf color and early leaf drop. Be aware that these same symptoms can be caused by other problems such as heavily compacted soil; stresses from insects, disease organisms and weeds; and excessively wet or dry soil. Fertilization will not correct those problems, so be certain that you know the cause of the symptoms and treat them appropriately.
Having your soil tested is one way to determine if applying fertilizer will benefit your azaleas. Information on soil testing is available in HGIC 1652, Soil Testing.
Most fertilizer recommendations are based on nitrogen, which is an important element in plant growth and often the one that is most likely deficient in the soil. Apply 1 pound of actual nitrogen per thousand square feet of root spread area. Up to 2 pounds can be applied with a slow-release fertilizer. In the absence of a soil test use a complete fertilizer with a ratio of 3:1:2 or 3:1:3, such as 12-4-8 or 15-5-15.
Apply fertilizer to the azalea’s root zone area (area occupied by nutrient and water-absorbing roots) which can extend beyond the drip line or outer-most branches. According to research findings, a shrub’s roots can extend three times the distance from its center to the outermost branches. So, if the distance from the center of the azalea to the outer-most branches is 2 feet, the feeder roots can extend an additional 4 feet beyond the drip line. To visualize the area to be fertilized, imagine the azalea as the center point of a circle with a 6-foot radius (the %26quot;root radius%26quot;). Trace the outer edge of the root zone area.
Since most azalea roots are located in the top foot of soil, surface application of the fertilizer is adequate. Evenly broadcast the fertilizer with a handheld spreader or a rotary or cyclone spreader over the root zone area. Sweep any fertilizer off the branches and water afterwards to make the nutrients available to the roots.
For azaleas growing in a bed, follow the steps below to determine how much fertilizer to apply over the bed to supply 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. If the shrub’s root zone area is confined by a sidewalk or driveway, reduce the area to be fertilized accordingly.
1. Measure the area of the bed, making an allowance for the roots that extend beyond the outermost branches. Let’s assume the bed is 30 feet long and 10 feet wide. The bed area (length x width) is 300 square feet.
2. Determine how much fertilizer to apply over the bed to deliver 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet using this equation:
100
%N in bag
= Number of pounds of fertilizer required per 1000 square feet in order to apply 1 pound of nitrogen
Assuming you have a 12-4-8 fertilizer, the equation for this example would look like this:
100
12
= 8.33 pounds of fertilizer required per 1000 square feet
Since the root zone is 300 square feet, the actual amount of fertilizer to apply is calculated as follows:
Root area ft²
1000 ft²
x pounds fertilizer per 1000 ft² = fertilizer to apply over root area
So,
300 ft²
1000 ft²
x 8.33 pounds fertilizer per 1000 ft² = 2.5 pounds fertilizer to apply over root area
Apply 2½ pounds or 5 cups of 12-4-8 evenly over the mulched bed.
Azaleas do not have to be routinely fertilized during the growing season. Any fertilizer application should be based on their appearance, such as leaf color, growth rate, soil test results and your objectives, such as encouraging growth or correcting a mineral deficiency.
The best time to apply fertilizer is when it will be readily absorbed by the roots of the plant and when the soil is moist, which can be any time from late spring (after new growth emerges) up to early fall. Avoid fertilizing plants stressed by drought during the summer months. Without water, plants are unable to absorb nutrients, so it is best not to fertilize if water is unavailable.
PRUNING
There are two pruning techniques used for azaleas: thinning and heading. Thinning refers to the removal of branches back to the main trunk or another branch. This method is used to remove leggy branches that extend beyond the canopy of the plant, remove damaged or diseased wood, or reduce the size of the plant. Thinning allows light to penetrate the shrub, encouraging growth on interior branches. You can thin at any time of the year without causing significant impact on flowering, growth or cold hardiness of the plant. How-ever, to reduce the impact on flowers the following year, prune just after flowering in the spring.
Heading refers to the cutting back of a branch, not necessarily to a side branch. This method is used to reduce the size of a plant, create a hedge or to renew old overgrown plants. Renew overgrown plants by cutting them back to within 6 to 12 inches of ground level. This practice results in abundant new growth by midsummer.
The best time to renew azaleas is before spring growth begins. This allows sufficient time for next year’s flower buds to form in midsummer, and for new growth to mature and harden off for winter. Renewal pruning before spring growth, of course, means that flowers are sacrificed for that year.
After renewal pruning, prune the tips of new shoots when they are 6 to 12 inches long, to encourage branching and a full canopy. Thin out new shoots emerging from the old stem. Keep the soil moist during the period after severe pruning.
PROBLEMS
The most common diseases on azaleas in South Carolina include petal blight, leaf gall, leaf spots, dieback, and root and crown rot. The most common insects are lacebug and spider mites. Good cultural practices such as careful plant location, provision of good aeration and drainage, mulching and good watering habits will reduce the incidence of disease and insect damage. For more information on disease and insect problems on azaleas, refer to Azalea and Rhododendron Diseases, HGIC 2050, and Azalea and Rhododendron Insects, HGIC 2051.
Iron is essential for healthy azaleas. Iron is available for uptake by azaleas w
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Azalea seeds?
Ok does anyone know if you can get azalea seeds off of an azaela bush or azalea plant? If so, where are they, and how can I harvest them? If not, where can I get the azalea seeds?
Also, does anyone have pictures of freshly germinated Blue Spruce, Dawn Redwood, or Giant Sequioa seedlings?
Azalea seeds?
I don%26#039;t think you can plant azalea %26quot;seeds%26quot; and have them grow into new bushes. I have never heard of it anyway.
If you want a new bush, take a cutting of a limb from an existing bush and plant it. That%26#039;s how nurserys do it and charge real money for it.
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Also, does anyone have pictures of freshly germinated Blue Spruce, Dawn Redwood, or Giant Sequioa seedlings?
Azalea seeds?
I don%26#039;t think you can plant azalea %26quot;seeds%26quot; and have them grow into new bushes. I have never heard of it anyway.
If you want a new bush, take a cutting of a limb from an existing bush and plant it. That%26#039;s how nurserys do it and charge real money for it.
skins.be blog
Azalea Question?
Hi. I have three azalea plants on the side of my house that I planted last year. They are just babies, well toddler plants now. They have new leaves on them and blooms which aren%26#039;t open. When I purchased them last spring they were full of pretty white azaleas. Only one has opened about a month ago.
I live in Southeast Texas and the azaleas in this area are absolutely beautiful here and don%26#039;t require a lot of maitenence.
How do I check the soil for acidity and what do I do if it is low. I have sprinkled some epsom salt a couple of times. I have given them any food.
Also my gardenia plant is not blooming either and has quite a few yellow leaves with the rest being light green. Is there a food that I can buy for both my gardenia and azalea plant?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Azalea Question?
Use %26quot;Miracid%26quot; by Miracle Gro
http://www.acehardware.com/sm-miracid-an...
Now with the blooms on is the perfect time to do so. It is specially made for acid loving plants. Sold at Lowes, Home Depot, Walmart and most garden centers. Even Ace Hardware carries it!
You can also buy a soil test kit but they are usually higher at the garden centers.
http://www.goestores.com/image.aspx?stor...
I live 18 miles from the Azalea Festival Of Missouri. One of the largest in the state.
http://www.fredericktownmissouri.net/
Ooops! I almost forgot it%26#039;s good for the gardenia as well.
Reply:Feed them with a slow release fertiliser for acid loving plants. It may actually have %26#039;For Azaelas%26quot; on the packet. The Gardenia will love that too. Also, you can mulch them with %26#039;pine fines%26#039; . Acid loving plants really appreciate some of that around them.
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I live in Southeast Texas and the azaleas in this area are absolutely beautiful here and don%26#039;t require a lot of maitenence.
How do I check the soil for acidity and what do I do if it is low. I have sprinkled some epsom salt a couple of times. I have given them any food.
Also my gardenia plant is not blooming either and has quite a few yellow leaves with the rest being light green. Is there a food that I can buy for both my gardenia and azalea plant?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Azalea Question?
Use %26quot;Miracid%26quot; by Miracle Gro
http://www.acehardware.com/sm-miracid-an...
Now with the blooms on is the perfect time to do so. It is specially made for acid loving plants. Sold at Lowes, Home Depot, Walmart and most garden centers. Even Ace Hardware carries it!
You can also buy a soil test kit but they are usually higher at the garden centers.
http://www.goestores.com/image.aspx?stor...
I live 18 miles from the Azalea Festival Of Missouri. One of the largest in the state.
http://www.fredericktownmissouri.net/
Ooops! I almost forgot it%26#039;s good for the gardenia as well.
Reply:Feed them with a slow release fertiliser for acid loving plants. It may actually have %26#039;For Azaelas%26quot; on the packet. The Gardenia will love that too. Also, you can mulch them with %26#039;pine fines%26#039; . Acid loving plants really appreciate some of that around them.
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